Monday, 8 September 2014

Leh Diaries :Part I

I love to travel. Something my parents have imbibed in me since we were kids. I thank them for my passion for travelling and it has taught me great deal. This year when they started planning for a half yearly trip their chosen destination really intrigued me. This time around it was Leh-Ladakh.


Ladakh Landscape
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I really did not know what to expect of this place, since I had seen pictures and it has also been featured in many movies. Frankly I had seen the Himalayas, been to every hill-stations nestled in the arms of these might mountain ranges, so what was so different about this place I mulled ? What I was going to find out happened to be an experience of a lifetime for me.


We were going to do the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh leg of the journey. You can also reach Leh via the Manali –Rohtang-Leh leg.

Ladakh region is towards the northeast part of the Jammu Kashmir state, sandwiched between the Karakoram ranges towards and north and the Himalayas towards the south.


Srinagar



Our first stop was Srinagar where we decided to stay on for a day before we left for Kargil the next day. It was a hazy afternoon as our flight descended at Srinagar from Mumbai.

Dal Lake in the morning
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Since I had already visited the Kashmir valley a couple of years back, I decided to spend my evening in Srinagar on a shikara on the Dal lake. The calming silence enveloped by the quite beautiful surroundings and a full moon to add on to the surrealism was an experience which cannot be described in words.

Dal Lake
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Flower Vendor in Srinagar
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I just let myself soak in the moment till it was time for us to get back to the hotel and prepare ourselves for the journey ahead the next morning.

Quick Tips for Srinagar

  • It’s suggested to drive from Srinagar to Leh, so you can acclimatize yourself to the      higher altitudes.
  • You can plan 2 -3 days in Srinagar extra, as there are lots of places to sight-see.
  • A Shikara ride will cost you Rs.500 for 4 pax.
  • You can shop for Kashmiri dresses and walnuts.
  • We had pre-booked a vehicle with a driver for our whole trip. Cost for an Innova for 12 days can range from Rs.40-50 thousand depending on areas you wish to cover.
  • Early bookings are advisable. We booked in March for travelling in the month of August. 
Evening at Dal

Sunset at Dal
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Srinagar-Kargil

We left Srinagar around 7.30 am for Kargil. The journey from Sringar to Kargil is very scenic. It was amazing how the scenery and landscapes reformed at every turn.
Changing landscapes
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Sonmarg
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En route to Sonmarg
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Pit stop for foot selfie at Sonmarg

Zozila pass

We stopped at Sonmarg to have a quick warm cup of Kashmiri Kahwah and after getting stuck at Zozila Pass for 2 hours, we reached the Dras in time for lunch.

Dras, albeit named as the second coldest inhabited place in the world was quite sunny and we stopped over at a lovely restaurant set amidst a garden of apricots and green apples. The owner was kind enough to let us have our fill of fresh sweet apricots straight from the trees, and we indulged ourselves shamelessly.
Green Apple and Apricot trees at Drass.


Kargil War Memorial in Dras, with Tololing ranges in the background.


Kargil War Memorial with Tiger hill in the background.

Kargil-Leh

As we approached Kargil, we stopped at the Kargil war memorial. The first thought which comes to everyone’s mind on the mention of Kargil is the Kargil War which was fought in May 1999. A war memorial is built in Kargil which is a must visit when going to Leh. There is a museum built in memory of the brave soldiers who fought and gave up their lives in the war. Each story is heart wrenching and guaranteed to give you goose bumps. You feel proud when you stand in front of the memorial where the names of all the martyrs are etched on a golden plate, while a tricolor flies proudly portraying their victory..


Full moon in Kargil. 

Kargil is a small town situated over the Suru river. There is nothing much to see, however it’s a good spot to buy apricots and apricot oil at reasonable price. We stayed overnight at a cosy hotel with a heartening view of the mountain ranges.

We left Kargil early, towards Leh. The landscapes from Kargil to Leh were diverse from the ones we saw while travelling from Sringar. The mountains were more barren and textured, with an occasional snow peak, peeking out of the ochre background.

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On the way to Leh, we passed Fotula pass which is 13475 ft. above sea level, and is the highest point on Srinagar-Leh highway. 

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Moon like landscape at Lama Yuru.
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We also passed the famed Magnetic hill, which apparently pulls the cars against gravity and our driver was enthusiastic enough to demonstrate the phenomenon.






15Km from Fotula is Lama Yuru monastery, one of the first monasteries you come across while in Leh.

Monasteries are everything they are expected to be. A very peaceful place with monks praying , ubiquitous prayer flags and exuding vibrations that makes you feel one with the divine. 

Indus-Zanskar river confluence.
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Leh

We finally arrived in Leh late afternoon. Leh is a very lively town with lots of options for accommodation. I must admit that although we did travel via Srinagar, in order to get acclimatized, everyone was still affected by the altitude. Every few steps make you gasping for breath. It’s recommended that you stay for at least 2 days in Leh without moving around much. Many like me do not take it seriously but frankly once I reached the place, I did feel uneasy in spite of travelling from a lower to higher altitude.

Leh town: First look.

Shanti Stupa
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Our humble abode while in Leh.

There are lots of places to sight-see around in Leh which I plan to cover in part two of this blog. Ladakh is so majestic, that even thousand words cannot suffice to describe the beauty.

Quick Tips:
  • It’s suggested that you drive from a lower altitude up to higher ones to get acclimatized. Even though we drove the Srinagar-Leh leg we did face altitude sickness at a mild level.
  • There are good army hospitals in Leh to cater to tourists having cases of altitude sickness.
  • Leh is a wonderful town with amazing cafés and bakeries.
  • You can shop of apricots and other things such as Tibetan trinkets from the Tibetan refugee markets. Personally I found these markets very expensive and mostly cater to foreign tourist. 
  •  If you love travelling on bikes there are lots of shops offering bikes on rent. You can also opt for trekking,camping and white water rafting which is very popular amongst the tourist.
  • July-August is the peak season, so it’s recommended that you book in advance,albeit I did have a few friends who went without any bookings and got into decent hotels.
  • Wifi is free in most of the cafes.

To be continued…

Do you feel like getting Leh'd. Do let me know you comments.


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Wednesday, 31 October 2012

Visiting the Monet's: Giverny

Monet's house and garden in Giverny
 
 It was summer and that time of the year where I got out of my usual routine and got down to packing my bags for a new journey. The destination this time around was Paris. Tickets and a accomodation in place, I had 2 weeks. With quick packing and zero planning, I set out with my partner and a couple of friends to explore this beautiful city of love. 
After being there for a week and almost covering whole of Paris on foot (literally), I started to get impatient and decided to explore places around. Due to lack of planning, everything turned out to be pretty expensive and after scouring the internet, I zeroed on a small town outside Paris on the way to the province of Normandy, called Giverny.


My love for art added on to my inquisitiveness as it was this place where the most famous impressionist artist Claude Monet used to reside. So one sunny day we set out to go to Giverny. We took a train to Vernon from Paris Gare St-Lazare. The train ride which took us almost 35 -40 mins to reach was quite a ride in itself. We passed through lovely quaint towns, rivers, and I could’nt help but indulge myself in the beauty of French countryside.
 
 
We arrived at Vernon, which looked quite deserted albeit the signs which directed us to the bus stop which would drop us to Giverny. Having missed the earliest bus we had some time on our hands to sit and explore the area around Vernon station. There are many small French bistros around and we hopped into one for a quick bite.
On Our Way to Giverny from Vernon.
 
The bus ride to Giverny from Vernon was as appeasing to the eye as the train ride. Vernon is a beautiful small town with wide roads surrounded by lush fields and meadows. Giverny is around 15 mins ride from Vernon if you take the coach; there are other options to rent a bike and ride around if you have time or best walk it up.

Lush Meadows in Giverny
 It was a short walk from the bus station to Monet’s house. We passed his studio and also a curio shop which was beautifully decorated with vines and rose climbers. The first thing I noticed about the place was that it was a riot of colors from the different flowering shrubs and plants. The moment I entered the vicinity of Monet’s house it was madness. Given I love flowers (much to the chagrin of my friend who were accompanying me and a very tired personal photographer hubby.:D), I took every opportunity to capture this beauty of nature, and it still wasn’t enough.

 
 
Curio Shop

A quite visit inside his house which was as gorgeous as its surroundings, reflected different personalities of the artist and I wasn’t surprised to notice that these gardens were where he drew his inspiration from. 
The best portion of this whole trip was the picturesque Japanese garden which was tucked a little away from his home which was accessible through an underground bridge. This was the place which is reflected in most of the Monet’s paintings particularly the Japanese bridge series. A lot of his paintings are based on the charming Japanese bridge covered with wisterias planted by Monet himself.  Walking across the bridge ,over the water lilies, was like walking in a different era , the calmness of the place making you want to take out your paint brushes and capture the beautiful scenery around on your canvas. Before I could soak in the magic around me, I realized it was my time to leave as we had the coach waiting for us to get us back to Vernon. As I left the Jarden De Monet, I couldn’t help but reminisce the words I had read by the master himself.

I am following Nature without being able to grasp her… I perhaps owe having become a painter to flowers”.

And I couldn’t agree less.:)
Japanese Garden

Quick tips:
Giverny is worth a visit if you love art and flowers. Try and book a guided tour if possible which would cover other places in Vernon and Giverny such as museum displaying Monet's works and a chapel.
The scenery is picturesque and worth it, even better if you have stamina to rent and ride a bike.
The ice cream they sell outside the curio shop is to die for.


 

Saturday, 29 September 2012

Ganpati Bappa: Loved or Lost.


Modern Ganesha painted by me::Acrylic on canvas.
I faintly remember as a kid, my parents used to take my sister and me to see the Ganeshas during ganeshutsav. Those were the times when commuting across the Vashi bridge was almost like a small vacation for us. Visiting Ganesh pandals was an exciting part of our lives as kids. For me it was like an adventure looking at the well decorated and beautifully lit pandals. We used to wait amidst the lesser crowd and shorter lines as compared to today, in anticipation, waiting for a glimpse of our ganpati bappa.

I remember one particular incident when I was perched on my mom’s hand, waiting in line for one of the famous ganpatis and I was super excited as mom kept on adding on to our inquisitiveness with mythical stories of the elephant headed god. I remember mom taking me in front of the huge idol and the mystical effect it had on me. Even as a kid, I couldn’t contain my awe looking up at the soft dewy eyed god in front of me.  As we left, I was enthralled and from then on Ganesh was my favorite God.

The love continued for many years, and I used to collect Ganesh idols of every shape, size material, made some, painted loads, even carved them out of chalks. My friends knew what exactly to gift me on my birthdays. It was pure obsession.

 While returning home from work last week during a 5th Ganesh visarjan day, I was stuck in terrible traffic. There was chaos all around.Ganesh idols being taken in a truck with disco lights and Bollywood music, youth almost drunk dancing on the streets. For me it was an ugly and disgusting sight. I began to retrospect on the reverence of the festival in today’s day and age. Politicians throwing money around, with their obnoxious faces plastered on the life size posters. It made me think that would the lord really feel it was worth a visit? A day after immersion was even more pathetic, with broken lifeless pieces of the idols lying in the gutters and on the creek. It made me think, would the ignorance and callous attitude of people towards environment and other people actually appease the lord? We welcome the lord with so much love and reverence but fail to respect our social and ecological environment. People show love and respect and worship the idols, prepare elaborate delicacies to appease the god, but fail to even look at the pollution caused due to immersion of flowers, plastic bags and Plaster of Paris idols in the lakes and ocean.  Call for ecological Ganesh festivities have also seems to have fallen on deaf ears.

I haven’t visited a single pandal since last few years. I don’t think god would reside in any of them as well. I still love my bappa and today being the last day sure makes me feel a sense of sadness that my beloved god is going, but also gives me a sense of relief that the chaos will be over. My favorite childhood memories have been replaced by this disturbing reality of environment pollution and pandal politics. I say with absolute love and admiration  ”Ganpati bappa moraya “,but don’t know if I should say “come soon next year”, as I doubt that lord Ganesh would himself be pleased to come down to earth.
||एकदन्ताय वाक्रतुन्दया गौरी तानाह्या  धीमही ||
||गाजेशानया भाल्चान्द्रया श्री गणेशाय धीमही ||

Wednesday, 12 November 2008

Inverness Awesomeness

I was expecting you” she said with a mellow smile.
The night was rainy, cold and extremely exasperating after a long drive. Getting stranded in the middle of Inverness in Scotland was the last thing my friends and I were looking forward to.

After a thorough search for the hostel we had booked online, and almost landing in a different house altogether we finally saw a small wooden board leading us to a somberly dark lane and an excuse for street light far away. Trusting our gut instincts we took the turn despite of repeated protests by our satellite navigator whom we had started to depend upon and fondly given the sobriquet “Aunty”.

It had started to snow lightly despite of it being summer in Scotland and temperature was steadily dropping along with our patience. At the end of the lane we came across a double storied edifice and hoping that this was our given destination, we got out of our vehicle.

It must have been a second before we got out of our vehicles, welcoming the feather light snow flakes melting gingerly on our faces, when she opened the front door of the house. “Welcome” she said,” I was expecting you”. With the cold zephyr almost chilling us to the bones, I shuddered.

“How did she know?” I thought. We had just arrived, probably really late and we hadn’t even knocked the door. I turned to my friend skeptically and wasn’t surprised to see a stunned expression on his face as well. The hostel wasn’t like any ordinary hostel at all. It was an old British house occupied by other travelers,even though it looked deserted at the moment.

Stepping out of the car, I had a chance to look around, whilst my other friends went inside to confirm our reservations. It was a beautiful edifice covered in lianas, facing what looked like a lake or a passing stream. In the daylight, the place would be straight out of my fantasies, I mulled. However I had a whole night to get through and I turned to go inside.

I stepped inside landing in front of a small passage which opened to an area which had stairs leading upwards. The whole area was lit in soft light and had loads of canvas paintings hung on almost all the walls, something which my artist instinct didn’t fail to comprehend.

Anita, the person in charge of the house, introduced herself and after a quick fire safety instructions, decided to show us around the house. After disposing our luggage in our room which was really huge and placed on the ground floor of the building, we quietly followed Anita, who took us upstairs to show us an extra bathroom which we could use.

While ascending the stairs, my friend N and I who share passion for art, just couldn’t miss this painting which stopped us dead on our tracks. It was a canvas painting with three men in hoods holding a sickle standing in front of three graves marked in some weird symbols. Given the situation, and stranded in a house straight out of some horror flick, I went numb looking at the artwork in front of me.

“You looked frightened” she exclaimed, as she saw me gawking at the painting. I just smiled meekly trying not to let my emotions get better of me. I wasn’t surprised to see my friends having similar expressions on their faces. I muttered a silent prayer and followed her as she began showing us the rest of the house.

After the brief tour of the mansion, we decided to retire to our rooms. It was a huge room with bunk beds and we were sharing it with a Chinese guy. While the other guy looked calm and happy, we couldn’t help but discuss the whole enigma surrounding this place.
Amidst the whole dialogue, my friend N decided to visit the washroom which was situated on the first floor and neither she nor I had the guts to go out of the room alone.

Grabbing onto her arms literally, I made a quite exit out of the room and started to ascend the stairs, meekly ignoring the painting of three hooded men staring back at us from their hoods with a sickle in their hands. The washroom was situated on the further end of the passage and could be accessed by surpassing a couple of doors. “Don’t go anywhere” I requested N, who was looking as if she was ready to take to her heels at blow of a whistle and saying so I opened the first door leading to the washroom.

‘Aarrrrrrrrrrghhhhhhhhh” I screamed and ran out desperately looking for N, who had already started her descend down the stairs at the start of my scream.” What happened?” questioned my colleague who had seen our mad dash down the stairs.


“Black Cat” I gasped pointing upwards.” There is a black cat with yellow eyes” I exclaimed. I caught hold of N and we went back yet again upstairs in our bid to find the black cat that inexplicably had vanished. “Where’s the cat??” she questioned.
“I swear to god, there was a black cat there” I said. Surprisingly the cat had vanished, that too from a place where there was only one exit and other opening to the bathroom which was locked. It couldn’t have vanished literally!

“Enough” I said,” lets go the washroom on the ground floor” and saying so we started towards the smaller bathroom next to our room. This time I asked N to go in first and this time it was her time to scream. “Black cat again” she said. This time we spotted the black cat, eyeing at us with her yellow eyes from the window.” Let’s ignore and get our jobs done” I told N, trying to be brave.

So while I was waiting for her, my scouring eyes,fell on these wooden toys and masks lying around. It was hard to ignore the fact that these wooden toys were definately eerie and all I wanted was to get out of the place at that moment lest something popped up in front of me from somewhere. After being throughly scanned by the cat from the window sill and being surrounded by weirdest toys ever,I managed to get out.


After being back in the safety of our rooms, V and I decided to go and pay the balance lodging charges to the caretaker of the house. Despite of the repeated protests not wanting to get out, I finally obliged and went into the adjoining room where the caretaker Anita used to stay.

On entering her room, I couldn’t help but notice lots of paintings all around.
“Are these made by you?” I enquired. “Yes” she replied. I asked her eagerly “Have you painted the one with 3 hooded guys?” What does it signify?”
”It doesn’t signify anything” she said. Getting an unsatisfactory response, I turned around and saw something which sent my heartbeat racing. There were dolls hung by the neck of all sizes on the walls. I glanced at V and he too had an astonished look on his face. “Let’s leave fast” I said and as soon as we could ,we ran out. As we passed the main door which was slightly open, we both freaked out when we saw three hooded men standing next to our car, near the porch. This was enough to make our senses numb and we yet again dashed back.


After getting into the room and practically explaining the whole fiasco to my other friends and saying a quick goodnight, I hopped onto my bed, making sure all the windows were tightly shut. And despite of scary tales narration by N, which was making it even worse to get any sleep,exhaution took over and I dozed off with the images of three hooded men with sickle in their hands coming after me.

I don’t know how much I slept. But I was awakened by the dawn coming in through the window. I hastily awoke and decided to step outside into the verandah. The morning was definitely less scary as the night and was more beguiling with the snow starting to fall lightly again. As I stepped out,I realized the house and the environs around it was as beautiful as I imagined it would be and I just couldn’t help being amused at the thought of how scary the night seemed. The three hooded men I encountered were actually travelers who were staying along for the night. Anita, as I met her while walking back into the house seemed to be a cheerful lady though I found her really mysterious in her own way and even offered us tea and eggs for breakfast. She had a lot of stories to tell though she gently hinted that she doesn’t like sharing them with people. Respecting her thought, N and I requested her to show her other paintings which she eventually did.

As we packed to move ahead into the next phase of the journey, I could help reflect the fact that sometimes things don’t seem the way they are. It’s eventually all in our minds.
As I sat in the car and as it started moving away from the house, I noticed a black cat on the porch, staring back, amidst the snow, as if hinting me to come back someday again.’I will” I smiled back “I sure will”.

Wednesday, 21 May 2008

The Freak and London




It's been a couple of months I have been in London and the city never fails to intrigue me. I have always encountered plethora of things around which have always fascinated me and have kept me wanting to discover it more and more every time I step out for my exploration trips. The people, the cars, the culture, musicians playing on the underground, the sky, fashion haunts, parks, the Thames, everything has its own charisma.

Pubs are a great part of the London culture. They are ubiquitous and people throng them for a drink after work, even if there is no place for an ant to go around. Yet you will find them standing out, most of them swelling on the roads with a large pint of beer, having garrulous conversations. Another interesting thing I noticed about the pubs here are the conspicuous names they adorn. The first pub I encountered with a quite uncanny name was at my project party." Slug and lettuce" it read. I might be quite ignorant then and assumed it must have been a very popular delicacy ravished all around in pubs, hence the name.

However the next time I encountered "Dog and Bulls", I realized I was definitely wrong, much to my own chagrin. And what followed was a myriad string of pubs with weird names. "Rat and Parrot" ,"Anchor and Hope". Out of sheer curiosity, I went online and hit the search engine for more pubs in London and found more absurd names. Rose and Crown,Lamb and Flag, King and Tinker,Hand and Shears(Don't want to even get knowing that one),Fox and Pheasants,Dog and Duck,Rat and Parrot, Coach and Horses (err.. Stables would have sounded more profound!), And yet another bunch like"I am the Only Running Footman" (Really?), The King's Arm, The Market Porter...and so on..

I must admit the names were pretty unusual and definitely got me ticking on their origin. However I plan to keep it as my next hobby and hopefully should find some answers. As for now, there's a new pub just around the block.....:)..waiting for me to be explored..!!